Carcross, Yukon

We went exploring, destination Carcross, Yukon, named originally for the vast numbers of caribou who crossed through the area on seasonal migrations. We didn't see too many cars crossing, nor caribou, though we discovered fresh, handmade waffle cones and gigantic scoops of ice cream.

Also an emerald lake, colored by glacial till or white marl (which is CaCO), a one square mile desert (small in comparison to the large dessert, previously mentioned), and the oldest operating general store in the Yukon. Also, growing in the desert, the rare Siberian Aster.

Great Northern Arts Festival

We had timed our visit to Inuvik to coincide not only with the midnight sun but also so that we could attend the opening of the Great Northern Arts Festival, an annual event that draws participation from over 100 circum-polar artist. What a treat! The creativity and quality of the arts were stunning, every medium from moosehair tufting to soapstone carving and on and on. We wished we were collectors and those treaures begged to come home with us, but we cherish the images and the beauty that we could share.

The opening of the festival provided some marvelous dancing, too, by the Aklavik Drummers and Dancers, who performed at the Olympic Opening Cceremonies. You might recognize them, too.

Later, back in Dawson City, attending the Buffy Sainte-Marie concert, we were treated to two other musicians who had also performed at the Olympic Opening--Boyd Benjamin, a fiddler and jig dancer supreme, and Kevin Barr, guitarist and song-writer. Boyd Benjamin's beautiful hand-beaded tie even included the Olympic Rings!

Part 2: Friends in the Yukon and NWT

Sometimes coincidence brings together truly compatible people. At least, that is how we felt when we met the heroic cyclist from Toronto. On the several opportunities for our paths to intersect, we enjoyed the lively discussion and compatibility. We were sad to wave him good bye--better, bon voyage--as he rode away from Whitehorse. Conquering the Dempster by bicycle is glory enough but to ride the four corners of Canada by bike deserves special accolades! We will be following you, friend, and wish you well!

A generous introduction brought us together with a delightful Dawson family from whom we parted sadly and hope to reconnect some time. May all your enterprises --and the gardens--prosper!

Sometimes a gesture of generosity and thoughtfulness spans worlds, as did that of Sidney, who drives a taxi in Inuvik. We met first at the Arctic Circle marker, where he was being a tour guide. Chatting again as our paths crossed, we were still very moved when he pulled up to the Nova Inn (Inuvik) and presented us with a highly prized souvenir--a genuine grizzly-bear shaped Northwest Territories license plate that had been on his car! I had wanted one so badly, but not one of the plastic replicas! Thank you for this kindness, Sidney!

In Dawson, we had the great good fortune to start chatting with Jean, another enthusiastic Buffy fan, who guided us to the best seats in the Grand Palace Theater for the concert and shared our joy in the uplifting, almost euphoric, performance. Her friend and Ray had a grand time chatting, both then and then next morning.

Up to our knees in the Arctic Ocean

"North of Ordinary" people in the Yukon and NWT

I like the slogan for Yukon that proclaims “North of Ordinary”. Indeed, our northern experiences have been far north of ordinary in all respects. Having twenty-four hours of daylight is just the beginning. I wish I had the moose’s fours stomachs the easier to digest the remarkable three weeks we have just spent “north of ordinary.” Not to overburden our friends, we decided to talk about this part of the trip over several days, starting with some stories of the people, including culture and arts and then show some photos of the landscape and overall environment with its plants and animals. Certainly, this is only a plate of tapas. For the real meal, we hope we’ll have many hours together with drinks and a large place of tapas once the road leads us home again.
While we’ve met wonderful people all along the way, we’re waving hello to just those encountered on the North Klondike Highway, in Dawson City, Yukon, and Inuvik, Northwest Territories, and all along the Dempster and Top of the World Highways (at least, highways is what the maps call these two-lane gravel roads) before we returned to “home” to the FunFinder at Caribou RV Campground in Whitehorse. To the couple from Texas who told us about the Buffy Sainte-Marie concert, thanks and we did manage to get tickets! We hoped you didn’t get stuck on the washed-out road into Alaska on the way to Chicken and Eagle. And then there is George, sole occupant of Boundary, Alaska, completely isolated now that the Top of the World road is closed to through traffic--thanks for the warm welcome, the hot coffee, and for sharing with us the Forty-Mile caribou herd!
We received the friendliest welcome at Nitainlaii Territorial Campground from Robert Alexis, who generously shared his stories about his life in the Fort McPherson region. (What a spic and span campground he keeps!) Talking about friendly--the folks up north are among the friendliest and most helpful we’ve ever encountered. There’s this long story about the girl at the ice-cream counter in Dawson who recognized us as a link in returning a lost camera to friends we had talked to at the Canada Day celebrations--from our images on that camera! What a detective she was, and so helpful, too! And we were delighted to run into Sylvia and Marge and to know that the camera had been returned, too. Heidi at NWT Information and Nicole at the Triple J in Dawson--thanks for treating us like old friends and being so helpful! Anika at the Aurora Research Institute taught us so much about the Arctic and took time to show us the Cosmic Ray/Neutron Detector and to Sister Mary Jo whose intriguing stories enriched out visit to the Igloo Church in Inuvik.
We are convinced that Parks Canada finds the most remarkable people who serve as admirable ambassadors--Marie-Claude the guide at Dredge 4 in Dawson (though her francophone pronunciation of Marion, Ohio did leave us puzzled for a little) created a historical pageant unimagined previously. Then there is Gerry at the office, who sat down and chatted for a while, busy though he was, and then recognized us later at the Arts Festival. A big shout-out to Elise in Yellowknife, marathon runner and friends with a mutual friend--small world. Her photos of us in the Artic Ocean are classic! Thanks so much, and come visit!

Mr.. Marmot on the Grizzly Lake Trail, Tombstone Park, Yukon

Internet is unstable today because of weather--out here in the country, 20 miles from Whitehorse, Yukon, the cloud cover determines the signal strength, so no big news today. Got to send this cute marmot photo. The big guy noticed us as we rested after a 1500' climb in a short two miles. He whistled, scurried around, hid for a moment, and then came out to inspect us again.

quick update

We are having a wonderful time, love the Yukon and its people, even caught an electrifying concert with Buffy Sainte-Marie! On our way back to Whitehorse, where we will catch you up with several blogs and great photos. Can't wait to tell you about our not-too-close encounters with three caribou herds just across the Alaska border on Top of the World Highway!

Crossing the Arctic Circle

The last week has been filled to the brim of experiences, all positive! How much there is to learn! I'm writing successive blogs to focus on a few of the highlights. So, first of all, crossing the Arctic Circle, where we spent over two hours taking photos and exploring the rolling landscape while all alone there, as well as talking to the variety of people who came and went.

Of course, we took the mandatory photos at the monument, so you get the preview. We also received a warm welcome and proof of the crossing, signed by camp host Mr. Robert Alexie at Nitainlaii Territorial Park in Northwest Territories.

Now I regret leaving my Thesaurus at home! There are not enough superlatives to describe this part of Yukon. As a local country song says, "Where do you go after Yukon?" The first two days on the Dempster Highway have revealed scenery beyond compare. The Tombstone Territorial Park unfolds jagged mountain peak upon peak, the scarlet fireweed lines the road, and clouds part to reveal further mountains, while the closer ranges are verdant green. We camped last night beside a chuckling brook surrounded by wild roses in bloom. (Okay, so if you are getting envious, it also rained several buckets and we set up the tent in the mud.)

Escaping the evening rain, we fixed supper in the common food shelter provided at each camp ground (oh, there is free firewood, also) and were delighted to share the space with a courageous and very interesting cyclist from Toronto who is cycling to the four corners of Canada; having covered the south, east, and west, he is setting out to the most northern point accessible by road, which is also our destination.

We're making great progress northward, passing the 64th, 65th, and 66th latitudes today. So far, the road has actually been far better than we anticipated, after hearing many horror stories. We have been alerted that what lies ahead may be a little more challenging, so we're planning to go slowly and only so far as McPherson, NWT tomorrow. Just a mere handful of miles (12.42, to be exact) remains until we cross the Arctic Circle tomorrow morning. As Ray says, this feels so unreal!

North Klondike Highway from Whitehorse to Dawson City

Every road opens new vistas and unexpected opportunities and people. One perfect Yukon moment was the mama bear with two cubs who crossed the road ahead of us. I had no notion that bear cubs redefined cuteness! They lingered along the roadside for several minutes, delighting us with their behavior before ambling away. Ahhh!

Other delights are also vast in size, as was the advertised cinnamon bun we bought at Braeburn Crossing, where we also learned about the Yukon Quest, a dog sled race which runs on the frozen Yukon River between Whitehorse and Fairbanks (or vice versa in alternate years). The fortitude of the mushers is greater even than the cinnamon bun! Note that the soup and the sandwich were also of considerable dimension!

Another special Yukon moment occurs each time we go from Dawson City (put the "city" in quotes) to the Yukon River government campground is the ferry ride across the river, there being no bridge. The ferry plies its four-minute crossing twenty-four hours a day and it is a kick for us to ride across the river so efficiently.